The beat goes on…

22 November 2010 at 12:00 6 comments

by Jacqueline Gunn, KF13. Christian Rural Aid Network, Cape Coast- Ghana

One of the first things I noticed about living in Ghana is the ebb and flow of sound. It feels like Ghana is living by a constant rhythm which is created in every household, on every street and every road.

Where I live is pretty rural- a walk away from the nearest road and along a dirt track which constantly changes due to the weather. Even though we are a way away from town, we are never missing some kind of sound. The goats we live with constantly bleat, the insects provide a high pitched background to life and at night at around 11pm the dogs in the area howl together- loudly. When there is a rainstorm, there really is a rainstorm and the sound of the thunder is so loud that the buildings shake and vibrate alongside it. Once the rainstorm has passed, it’s the turn of the resident frogs and toads to pipe up and croak through the night.

At work people like to talk loudly. Ghanaians are animated people and there is constant chatter, loud laughs and jokes being made. The CRAN driver Jomo comes into the Kiva office on a regular basis singing songs to himself whilst waiting for the next person who needs to be driven. Every morning we have a half hour devotion where the whole office sings and prays together.

Visits to the field can be noisy too. When you arrive in a village you can hear bells ringing as the ladies walk around selling their wares carrying the goods on their head (a traditional Ghanaian style). The beginning of repayment meetings are marked with either a chant or a communal song to call the attention of the borrowers. There’s often what I would class as an argument being shouted in lively Fante…the borrowers and the loan officers have smiling faces though and I think it’s all ok. The women of Ghana create their own rhythms pounding cassava and plantain in wooden dishes to make the local dish “fufu”. A proportion of CRANs borrowers in Ghana sell this local dish or its ingredients.

When you walk around town there a rush of sound too. Market sellers shouting out and selling their wares, children playing and singing, religious services being held in buildings and the sounds of preaching pouring out of the door for all to hear. Turn a corner and you will see 12 huge speakers piled up ready to blast out music- there’s no sound police here. Even Barclays wants in on the fun. You know you are a long way from home when a bank sets up a street-side disco to get new customers!

On Friday and Saturday nights, local drumming groups put on performances at the restaurant in town and the rhythm of Ghana continues. As you walk along the roadside tro-tros slow down and when they pass the tro-tro mate shouts “AccraAccraAccraaaaa”, or “TakradaaaayyyyTakradaaayyyyy” to solicit custom for the journey. As a white person, walking down the street unnoticed is impossible and children sing “Obruni, how are you, Im fine, how are you” on a constant loop. Obruni means foreigner. Ghanaians love ring tones too, and have their phones set loudly to play either Ghanaian hip-hop or Christian songs (some just have “Jesus loves you, God loves you” in spoken word as their ringtone). I’ve not yet mentioned the sounds from traffic either – beeping your horn is a national sport here.

I didn’t expect to be surprised by the sounds of Ghana, but this constant rhythm is interesting and new. Only occasionally do I wish I had brought earplugs!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Jacqueline Gunn is currently dancing a lot whilst serving as a Kiva Fellow at Christian Rural Aid Network in Cape Coast in Ghana.

If you would like to experience the rhythms of Africa firsthand, consider becoming a Kiva Fellow and find out more here.

Entry filed under: Africa, blogsherpa, Christian Rural Aid Network (CRAN), Ghana, KF13 (Kiva Fellows 13th Class). Tags: , , , , , , , , , .

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6 Comments

  • 1. Zerrin  |  23 November 2010 at 04:15

    Egg-cellent post! I definitely agree that Ghana is full of sounds. I marvel at these very sounds all the time. I love some, but have mixed feellings about others. Though I must admit, I have come to cherish these sounds. They add to the vibrancy of life here. Without children screaming “Obruuuuniii” at you, I don’t know if Ghana would really be Ghana…

  • 2. Jerry Harter  |  23 November 2010 at 00:16

    Hey Jacqueline,
    Love your post – great slides. I can almost hear Ghana from here!

  • 3. kivacharlie  |  22 November 2010 at 18:50

    Love ‘beeping your horn is a national sport here’…reminds me of my time in India. It would be as if something very peculiar was going on if there was not a horn blaring somewhere nearby.

    Glad to see your internet cooperated for the very cool slideshow!

  • 4. tinkgunn  |  22 November 2010 at 14:45

    Hi Howard,

    Thank you very much, and yes settling well.

    You’re right- I would have have loved to have put a sound or video file with it however the internet connection in Ghana sadly doesn’t accommodate heavy media files. It’s an ongoing challenge- not just for me, but for the Kiva team as well who are trying to upload profiles, journals and photos on a daily basis. Living here certainly requires patience!

    I’m hoping to invest in some speedier internet soon- so if that’s possible, watch this space for some more interactive content!

    I hope all is well with you,

    Jacqueline.

  • 5. howard zugman  |  22 November 2010 at 14:28

    Sorry about the typo. I actually do know how to spell Ghana.

  • 6. howard zugman  |  22 November 2010 at 14:26

    Hi Jacqueline,
    Thank you for the extremely vivid “sound” portrait of Guana. I assume that you’ve adjusted to your new surroundings quite well. Please continue to post as you are able. By the way, this particular post fairly screamed for an accompanying audio file. (Just an idea).

    Keep up the fine work.


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